Not only is it my big sister’s 22nd birthday, but it is also the anniversary of probably the most historically influential event in the United States in our generation, AND the anniversary of the absolutely most important event in Chilean modern history. Wow, what a day!
So as I explained a little yesterday, September 11th, 1973 was the day military leader Augusto Pinochet with the Chilean military attacked the Moneda (Chilean White House) and killed the Chilean socialist president Salvador Allende. Pinochet had the backing (unofficial of course) of the US CIA and was supposed overthrow the Socialist Party and act as temporary head of state until an official government came to power. Unfortunately, he started a 17 year long military dictatorship dominated by brutal tortures, kidnappings and murders of thousands of Chilean communists, socialists, and anyone who spoke out against the dictatorship. Needless to say, there are lots of Chileans who really don’t like Pinochet. And since Chileans are Chilean, they love any excuse to cause a fuss (according to Olga). So September 11th every year is known for being somewhat dangerous on the outskirts of the city and there is usually a little fuss downtown near La Moneda.
So Olga assured me that it was ok to go running early in the day if I went to Parque O’Higgins where I usually go. So I headed out and before going to the park and I made a slight detour and ran to the end of Bulnes, the pedestrian street that runs perpendicular to Alameda, directly across from La Moneda. Knowing I would stay far away and that Bulnes would be safe in case anything happened, I walked down Bulnes towards La Moneda. There wasn’t much going on and there were plenty of people out on the streets. At La Moneda a crowd had gathered and they were chanting, but I didn’t get close enough to hear what they were saying. All I know is that they are Allende supports. So after getting my fill watching from afar, I decided to continue my run. I turned around and coming down the street towards me were about 60 people in a little march. They had 3 banners and were chanting something. The banners said something about La Voz (The Voice) and they were obviously Socialists/Communists. Everything was tranquila and no one bothered any body, but it was still exciting to see a little march. Later in the evening I even saw this group on the news, so that was exciting!
I finished my run around the park and headed back to shower and almuerzo con Olga. I didn’t tell her I’d gone to La Moneda because I knew she’d worry. I spent the afternoon reading a little and otherwise doing nothing until Calli called and said they were going up to the Cemeterio General of Santiago. So I jumped down to the metro and met up with her and Sam. We rode up to the cemetery and after asking the guard where it was, we went to Salvador Allende’s tomb. It is a huge beautiful monument surrounded by other beautiful huge monuments, but his was covered in roses, signs, and pictures of people who had been kidnapped and/or killed during Pinochet’s reign of terror.
Feeling like patriotic young Chileans, we headed back to the metro and met Christian (my Chilean friend) and Courtney and we all went and saw the new Chilean film Malta con Huevo (Malt (Beer) with Egg). The movie was about as weird as the title. It started out has a comedy then suddenly turned to very dark comedy. It was a good movie, just not what I was expecting. But amazingly, and surprisingly, I followed along quite well. To be honest it didn’t have too much dialogue and luckily was easy to follow without understanding everything. The best part was sitting in the theater and knowing that if I had watched this movie two months ago, I would have had no idea what they were saying.
After the movie we headed straight back home like I’d promised Olga. The theater was in a nice part of town and since we stayed on the metro the whole time, it was totally safe. When I got home around 8:15 Olga seemed a bit relieved and told me she was glad I’d made it back early. We ate dinner and then I headed to my room to finally start the readings that I had for tomorrow. I called Sara to wish her a Happy Birthday, but she didn’t answer. Tear… I fell asleep reading around midnight and at some point my computer fell off my bed and woke me up. But it was fine and I went back to sleep.
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1 comment:
Even though I have read about Pinochet and the US, I appreciate your explanation. Perhaps it is because you are there and witnessing some of the history that it means more to me. A very sad day in history. Have fun on your vacation!
Love and hugs, Mommer
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