Thursday, September 20, 2007 Not the 7th day, but still a day of rest
Since today was my one day between Fiestas Patrias and more traveling, I needed to take advantage of it and get some work done. I spent the morning doing an assignment for my education class. During almuerzo the mailman came by and dropped of a package my mom sent me! It was full of good old American treats: Pop Tarts, animal crackers, Care Bare fruit snacks, a slinky, and letters from home. I was thrilled to get it and had a great time explaining everything to Olga. She had never seen Pop Tarts or animal crackers or a slinky (which apparently they don’t have in Chile).
Afterwards I went to a chapel nearby to pray and came back feeling refreshed. I frantically worked on a 4 page essay that was due the following Monday until 6, when I had once with Olga. She wanted to make sure I was well fed before my trip and insisted that we ate.
We went to mass together at 7 and towards the end of mass I started feeling a little ill. When we got back to the apartment I told Olga that my stomach hurt and within the next 20 minutes or so I felt horrible. Olga of course had tons of remedies that she was sure would help immediately and for the next few hours I laid curled up in bed while she brought me various tea concoctions. I forced them down, but wasn’t feeling any better. I knew that if I got sick I would feel better, but I couldn’t. Olga kept telling me to try and burp or fart and we laughed together whenever I joyfully updated her on my “gas releasing” process. We tried to figure out why I had suddenly gotten so sick and I knew it was something I’d ate or drank. Since that day I’d only eaten with Olga, I figured it was the meat or something. But Olga swore it was because I’d drunk water while I ate my empanada at once. She said that no one ever drinks water when they eat empanadas and she had thought about warning me against it but didn’t say anything. I just smiled and agreed, but I knew it couldn’t be the combination of food and water.
(Post Script: I’m not quite sure what made me so sick, but I think that it was the water. The water from the tap is some of the best in Latin America, but sometimes, like anywhere, it can have impurities. I drank some of the same water later on, which I had brought with me to La Serena in my water bottle and I felt a little sick again. But don’t worry, I’ve been drinking the tap water again and I’ve felt completely fine. I think it was just a freak accident. But the good news from it all: I now have absolutely no desire to ever eat an empanada ever again.)
Since I was getting on another bus at midnight for a 7 hour ride, I was quite anxious to get this issue taken care of. I was slowly getting better, but not quick enough when Olga remembered some root extract or something that she swore would help. The mysterious dark liquid tasted horrible and I still didn’t feel much better but around 10:45 I headed out to meet Sam and Calli at the bus station. While we waited for the bus, I paced the station and prayed I would be better when I got on the bus. At one point I almost did throw up, but unfortunately I wasn’t near a bathroom so I couldn’t. Anyway, I’ll move on. Sorry about the unnecessary details. This is more for my sake so that when I reread it in 20 years I remember my agony!!
So I wasn’t feeling so hot but poor Sam told us that a few hours early she had talked to her mother (her real mom) and found out that her great aunt had a terrible stroke and wasn’t doing very well. They told Sam that she didn’t have long to live and there was really nothing they could do. Her great aunt had been like a grandmother to her and they had been very close, so Sam took the news really hard. I could tell she was really upset and hated that we were starting our trip to La Serena this way. But at midnight we got on the bus and I fell asleep as soon as I could.
Friday, September 28, 2007
Wednesday, September 19, 2007 FIESTAS PATRIAS Part II: Día del Ejercicio
Wednesday, September 19, 2007 FIESTAS PATRIAS Part II: Día del Ejercicio (Military Day)
I walked home from Calli’s around 10:45 and on my way home along Alameda I was interrupted by a military parade!! I’m not sure what branch, but I think it was the Marines. Amazingly, I was able to walk right along side them on my way. There were many people watching and others walking along like me. There were well over 300 soldiers (in handsome white uniforms), a band, and horses. I felt like I was being royally escorted home!
I ditched the parade a few blocks from my house. I hung out till about 1:30 when Olga and I began the long trek to Rino’s house for the barbeque. We met up with Mario and when we got to the house, Rino was in the backyard with a grill full of pork chops. I joked that there was enough pork chops to feed 20 people and Rino laughed and pointed to the raw beef steaks on the side waiting to cook. Then he opened a huge pot on the other side full of grilled chicken. Then he laughed again and told me the chorizo was still in the kitchen. So there literally was enough food to feed 20 people! Back in the kitchen, Olga and Evan were busy preparing all the salads: grilled potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, pickled veggies, some type of seafood mussel thing, and probably more that I can’t remember now. All of this for 5 adults and a 6 year old. Basically the Chileans know how to celebrate their Fiestas!!
While we were waiting for all the meat to cook, Mario passes around Pisco Sours. I tried to politely decline but he insisted, so I began slowly sipping the national drink. But I honestly could not drink it, so after about half an hour I sneaked into the kitchen and asked Olga to switch with me. She had almost finished hers and was surprisingly pleased to take my full glass!! Later I went with Mario and Miguel to fly a kite that they had bought and Mario stringed himself. The kites are super popular during Fiestas Patrias and the little park by there house was full of kids and adults flying their kites. But we had a little trouble because the wind was pretty random and we didn’t have much room, so despite our best efforts we couldn’t get the little guy to stay up for long. So we headed back to the house. I ended up playing soccer then tag with Miguel until the food was ready.
When we sat down to eat, both Olga and Evan’s faces were a bit flushed and they were both quite happy. (I think they’d been sipping more pisco while they were cooking, but I loved it!!) Rino began the feast by piling more meat than I could eat in a week on his plate. Over the next hour and a half, we sat around the table laughing, eating, and watching the Military Parade in Parque O’Higgins on the TV. After Rino and Mario finished their mound of meat, they went for a second helping (and more later). I think I might have disappointed them because I didn’t eat much compared to them. But I was stuffed and realized that it isn’t only the Midwest that knows how to barbeque!
The best parts of the meal: 1. When Mario told Olga that she lets her mouth run when she’s had too much to drink. It wasn’t mean, just funny. 2. Someone started telling a story about when Miguel was only 3 years old he somehow memorized the words to the song called “Misioneros”. Apparently one day he started singing it and everyone was very impressed. I asked how the song went and Olga started signing. Turns out that it is one of the songs we sang on our mission trip to Honduras, so I knew it as well!! So while we all digested, we sang hymns and other church songs from a notebook that hand a ton of songs handwritten inside!
Afterwards the men went to nap and Olga, Evan and I sat at the table and talked. Once Miguel got antsy enough, we all went to the park again to try to fly the kite. Eventually Rino made it work, but Olga and I headed back early because it had gotten really cold. Around 7 we ate once, but I don’t know how anyone managed to eat anything. I stuck with tea and a little bread and swore I wouldn’t have to eat for a week! After once we all piled into the car and Rino drove us to the metro station.
We got home a little after 8 and I was torn between wanting to go out and celebrate the last night of Fiestas Patrias and being so exhausted that I just wanted to go to bed. I told Olga my dilemma and she proposed that if my friends call me and have some interesting plans, I should go. But if no one calls, I’ll stay in. It sounded good to me since I didn’t really care either way. So I climbed into bed and started working a little and ended up talking to Trevor till about 3 am. And since, like always, everyone waits for everyone else to initiate the plan making, no one called and I enjoyed my relaxing night.
I walked home from Calli’s around 10:45 and on my way home along Alameda I was interrupted by a military parade!! I’m not sure what branch, but I think it was the Marines. Amazingly, I was able to walk right along side them on my way. There were many people watching and others walking along like me. There were well over 300 soldiers (in handsome white uniforms), a band, and horses. I felt like I was being royally escorted home!
I ditched the parade a few blocks from my house. I hung out till about 1:30 when Olga and I began the long trek to Rino’s house for the barbeque. We met up with Mario and when we got to the house, Rino was in the backyard with a grill full of pork chops. I joked that there was enough pork chops to feed 20 people and Rino laughed and pointed to the raw beef steaks on the side waiting to cook. Then he opened a huge pot on the other side full of grilled chicken. Then he laughed again and told me the chorizo was still in the kitchen. So there literally was enough food to feed 20 people! Back in the kitchen, Olga and Evan were busy preparing all the salads: grilled potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, pickled veggies, some type of seafood mussel thing, and probably more that I can’t remember now. All of this for 5 adults and a 6 year old. Basically the Chileans know how to celebrate their Fiestas!!
While we were waiting for all the meat to cook, Mario passes around Pisco Sours. I tried to politely decline but he insisted, so I began slowly sipping the national drink. But I honestly could not drink it, so after about half an hour I sneaked into the kitchen and asked Olga to switch with me. She had almost finished hers and was surprisingly pleased to take my full glass!! Later I went with Mario and Miguel to fly a kite that they had bought and Mario stringed himself. The kites are super popular during Fiestas Patrias and the little park by there house was full of kids and adults flying their kites. But we had a little trouble because the wind was pretty random and we didn’t have much room, so despite our best efforts we couldn’t get the little guy to stay up for long. So we headed back to the house. I ended up playing soccer then tag with Miguel until the food was ready.
When we sat down to eat, both Olga and Evan’s faces were a bit flushed and they were both quite happy. (I think they’d been sipping more pisco while they were cooking, but I loved it!!) Rino began the feast by piling more meat than I could eat in a week on his plate. Over the next hour and a half, we sat around the table laughing, eating, and watching the Military Parade in Parque O’Higgins on the TV. After Rino and Mario finished their mound of meat, they went for a second helping (and more later). I think I might have disappointed them because I didn’t eat much compared to them. But I was stuffed and realized that it isn’t only the Midwest that knows how to barbeque!
The best parts of the meal: 1. When Mario told Olga that she lets her mouth run when she’s had too much to drink. It wasn’t mean, just funny. 2. Someone started telling a story about when Miguel was only 3 years old he somehow memorized the words to the song called “Misioneros”. Apparently one day he started singing it and everyone was very impressed. I asked how the song went and Olga started signing. Turns out that it is one of the songs we sang on our mission trip to Honduras, so I knew it as well!! So while we all digested, we sang hymns and other church songs from a notebook that hand a ton of songs handwritten inside!
Afterwards the men went to nap and Olga, Evan and I sat at the table and talked. Once Miguel got antsy enough, we all went to the park again to try to fly the kite. Eventually Rino made it work, but Olga and I headed back early because it had gotten really cold. Around 7 we ate once, but I don’t know how anyone managed to eat anything. I stuck with tea and a little bread and swore I wouldn’t have to eat for a week! After once we all piled into the car and Rino drove us to the metro station.
We got home a little after 8 and I was torn between wanting to go out and celebrate the last night of Fiestas Patrias and being so exhausted that I just wanted to go to bed. I told Olga my dilemma and she proposed that if my friends call me and have some interesting plans, I should go. But if no one calls, I’ll stay in. It sounded good to me since I didn’t really care either way. So I climbed into bed and started working a little and ended up talking to Trevor till about 3 am. And since, like always, everyone waits for everyone else to initiate the plan making, no one called and I enjoyed my relaxing night.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007 FIESTAS PATRIAS Part I: Día de Independencia
Tuesday, September 18, 2007 FIESTAS PATRIAS Part I: Día de Independencia
(Independence Day)
First of all: Sorry I’ve taken so long to update my blog. I know I’m more than a week behind, but after all this traveling I made the executive decision to catch up on school work before catching up on my journaling. So now I’ve got the weekend (still with a lot of school work) to fill everyone in on the last week.
(Independence Day)
First of all: Sorry I’ve taken so long to update my blog. I know I’m more than a week behind, but after all this traveling I made the executive decision to catch up on school work before catching up on my journaling. So now I’ve got the weekend (still with a lot of school work) to fill everyone in on the last week.
So as you can guess, I woke up Tuesday morning still on the bus. By this point I was super ready to be on solid ground and stay there for a few days. Since we’d had all the problems the night before, we ended up getting to the bus station in Santiago around noon, instead of 10:00 like we should have. I was really antsy and couldn’t wait to get out in the town to celebrate Dieciocho. (It means eighteen and it’s basically like saying The Fourth.)
When I got back to the house, I greeted a patiently waiting Olga, took a shower, and cleaned up. Afterward assuring Olga that I didn’t need lunch, I met Calli at La Moneda (the capital building). They were having concerts and performances in the cultural center all day so we decided to check it out before heading to the Fondas (the huge festivals, I’ll explain later.) We watched a comical, interactive clown performance then a huge group of singers and musicians from the Canary Islands (off the coast of Spain) performed. I thought it was ironic that on Chile’s day of independence from Spain, we listened to traditional Spanish music.
After the concert Calli and I walked about 25 minutes to Parque (Park) O’Higgins, the park by my house where I always go running. As we got closer, I realized that the place had transformed from a quite, peaceful park to a bustling, chaotic festival. The Fonda at Parque O’Higgins is the biggest in Santiago and is free, and I felt like everyone in Santiago was there. Calli and I had a great time walking around admiring the families picnicking, children flying kites, millions of food and drink vendors, teenage couples making out, random music and dance performances, everything. The park is huge and every inch was full. We made sure to try all the traditional Chilean Fiestas Patrias food: empanadas, anticacho (meat kabobs), pineapple juice with pineapple ice cream, candied apples, and churros. It sounds like a lot but we shared almost everything and it only cost each of us $4. Imagine if we’d bought all that at a festival in the states!
After about 2 hours of walking around and stuffing ourselves we found a quiet place it sit and people watch. But we quickly realized that the sun was going down and the park was only getting more and more crowded, so we walked home. I didn’t want to leave because we’d only been there two hours, but I’ve come to learn that I’m not the party animal I thought I was and that I only like huge crowds for short periods of time.
We both went home to regroup and decide what to do next. At 7 we met back up at La Moneda for another concert we wanted to go to. It was a fun hybrid group of Chilean folk music, blues, jazz, and funk. They were great and unfortunately played for only about 35 minutes. But they finished the concert with a great cueca (the national dance) and a young couple from the crowd danced for everyone. It was the best cueca I’d seen: exciting, a little sexy, and much more entertaining than the traditional cuecas.
Calli and I walked back to my house, picking up Hanna at the metro on the way. We all ate once at my apartment with Olga, who was thrilled to entertain and meet my friends. We had Olga’s homemade empanadas, which were honestly the best empanadas I’d eaten. And I’m not just saying that. Then the three of us took the metro to Calli’s empty apartment because her family had all gone to the beach for the Fiestas Patrias. We were going to meet up with friends and go to another Fonda in the city (there is one in every comuna (neighborhood) and the others are supposed to be safer at night than the one at Parque O’Higgins). But our friends took forever to get to the house and by the time they arrived we were all exhausted from the traveling and lack of sleep. So we decided to just hang out and play cards. Luckily it was a good mix of Chileans and gringos, so we spoke in Spanish. We ended up having some great conversations and staying up till 3:30. The boys headed home and the girls spent the night at Calli’s. Yet another night not in my own bed, but well worth it.
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